This is my guest post published December 27, 2011 in Food and Think, the food blog of the Smithsonian Magazine’s website.
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For this month’s Inviting Writing, we asked for stories about foods that make your holidays complete. We’ve read about pizzelles, mystery cookies and mashed potatoes, and today’s essay is about roti, a specialty that comes from Trinidad by way of India, China and Queens. Linda Shiue is a San Francisco-based doctor and food writer who “believes in the healing power of chicken soup.” She blogs about food and travel at spiceboxtravels.com and you can follow her on Twitter at @spiceboxtravels.
Ravenous for Roti
By Linda Shiue
Ask any Trinidadians what they’re hungry for, and the answer will be “roti.” This refers not only to the Indian flatbread itself, but the curried fillings which make Trinidadian roti the best hand-held meal you’ll find. Curries in Trinidad are served with either dhalpouri roti, which is filled with dried, ground chick peas, or paratha, a multilayered, buttery flatbread. You wrap the roti around some of your curry filling and eat it like a burrito. It’s sold as a common “fast” food in Trinidad (the cooking of the curry is not fast but the serving of it into freshly prepared rotis is) but also prized enough to be served at family gatherings and celebrations. For members of the Trinidadian diaspora, like my husband, the hunger for roti is profound. If you live in New York, it is not too far of a trip to find yourself a decent roti—Richmond Hill in Queens is home to a large Trinidadian and Guyanese community. Trinidad itself is only about a five-hour flight away. But if you are on the West Coast, you’re out of luck. Visiting Trinidad requires almost a full day of air travel. Last time we checked, there was only one Trinidadian roti shop in our area, over in Oakland. It was a musty, dim (as in unlit until customers rang the buzzer) shop, and the owner was equally dour. Even as I paid for our lunch, I felt the need to apologize for intruding. The rotis were pallid, dry and lifeless. They were nothing like the roti I had devoured in Trinidad.
On my first trip to my husband’s home, my future mother-in-law (herself a Chinese immigrant to Trinidad from Canton) served me some curry tattoo. What’s tattoo? Better known around here as armadillo. Despite having recently completed a vegetarian phase, and despite the still visible markings on the flesh of the armadillo’s bony plates, I tasted it. You could call it a taste test, under my mother-in-law’s watchful gaze, with the emphasis on “test.” This taste was the beginning of what was, on that visit to my husband’s home village in the South of Trinidad, an eye-opening journey to a land of culinary delights I had never imagined. On this trip, which happened over Christmas, I was led from home to home, eating a full meal at each stop. I was presented with plate after plate of curried dishes, condiments (including kuchila, tamarind sauce and fiery Scotch Bonnet pepper sauce), pastelles (similar to tamales, but with a savory-sweet filling of minced meat, olives, and raisins) and the rice dish pelau. Since then, I’ve learned to cook a pretty mean curry myself. But I have not yet mastered the art of roti making, and this is a cause for sorrow. We make do with eating curry and rice when we are without roti, but whenever we can find time and an excuse to go to New York, we have one mission: procure roti.
There is no such thing as “going too far” to sate the hunger of the expatriate. When it is for something as tasty as Trinidadian roti, a cross-country flight is not considered unreasonable. So we go to New York for a Christmastime visit to my New York-by-way-of-Trinidad in-laws. There is no Christmas goose or ham on the dining table at this Trinidadian Christmas celebration. When we announce our plans to visit, our family knows to make the obligatory run to Singh’s for curry goat and chicken, aloo pie and doubles, to bring it over to my mother-in-law’s for a welcome feast. But they have also learned over the years that they should check in with us for our “to go” order of unfilled roti. We’ll order half a dozen each of dhalpouri roti and paratha, carefully triple wrap them individually, and freeze them overnight to bring back with us to San Francisco. By the time we get back, they are starting to defrost, but they’re the first thing we unpack (and refreeze), because this is some precious loot. The handful of homesick Trinidadians we’ve collected over the years here is always thrilled when we organize a curry night, and there is never enough roti.
Great post! Congratulations on having it published. Roti was the first food I tried when we visited T&T and I liked it so much that I ate it again every day.
Thanks, Luisa. Will make for you next time you visit!
Now *I’m* hungry for roti and curry! I’ve never had the Trinidadian type, only something by that name (with goat curry) at a Jamaican place in Vancouver — it was delightful.. I imagine they’re somewhat similar. I do hope you master roti-making and share the recipe with the rest of us someday!
Felicia, the Jamaican and Trini versions are similar, because I think the Jamaican version comes from Trinidad. Risky to say, but Trini roti is better:)
I love Roti and Curry too, but it’s funny because I’ve only ever had it at a Malaysian restaurant in Boston. Did not realize it was from Trinidad and wonder if it’s the same or just similar as a combo. Yum!
Both have similar origins (India), but very different– the Trini one is a meal, often rolled up like a burrito, where the Malaysian/Singaporean is more of a snack. The Malaysian one is smiler to Trinidadian buss up shot or paratha, but very different from the split peas filled dhalpouri. Also the Malaysian version involves coconut milk in the curry. That said, I love both types.
Awesome! I love Smithsonian Magazine, and your post is a wonderful addition. Lovely family back story, I really enjoyed meeting your mother-in-law and husband, too.
Wonderful story! A Guyanese friend showed me how to make “bust-up-shut” and chicken curry for my cookbook. It’s such a fun dish, both to make and to eat. Congratulations on your post too. Cheers, Pat
Thanks, Pat. Now I’m really impressed– you make buss up shut!
Great post spicebox travels! I am from Trinidad living in the DC metro area and have very few Trini places I get food from! Needless to say I am a great cook but like you make the trip to the vendors get the skins & freeze so my family can enjoy at any time! I do make a mean pepper roti though:)!
Hi Nandita, thanks for coming by and commenting! I’d love to see your pepper roti recipe too, care to share? Also, I have a cookbook coming out in March which has a whole section on Trinidadian recipes– Spicebox Kitchen, Hachette, March 2021. Please look out for it and spread the Trini love!