I’ve bragged before about my hidden talent– the ability to understand foreign-accented English, perfected through years of international Thanksgiving potlucks.  Alas, I do have an Achilles heel.  It’s the Scottish brogue.  Don’t you just love it? It’s musical, cadenced.  But you’ve got to admit, a challenge to understand. (Tell me: why should Edinburgh be pronounced “Edinboro”?)  I learned of my weakness when I was floored by my inability to understand the Scotsman I met in the most unlikely of places, a backpackers’ hostel in Aitutaki, Cook Islands.  It was an international cast of characters with different accents to challenge me– the locals, speaking in New Zealand accents; the Lyonnaise woman who proclaimed she did not have a French accent (but did); a young farming couple from the Devon countryside speaking in a West Country accent; and the Scot.

Robert Burns wrote poems on many subjects, the most famous perhaps his “O, my Luve’s like a red, red rose…”  He lyricized on food, too, including an ode to haggis, but no worries, I’m not cooking that here.  Instead, this story reminded me of Welsh Rabbit, sometimes spelled Rarebit, the British version of grilled cheese.  It’s not clear how its name came about.   Like Robert Burns/Rabbit Buns, Welsh Rabbit does not contain actual rabbit. The first recorded use of this name was in 1725. Theories abound as to its etymology.  One proposes that it may be an ironic name coined in the days when the Welsh were notoriously poor: in England at that time rabbit was the poor man’s meat, and in Wales the poor man’s meat was cheese.  Another explanation is simpler: the Welsh were known for being cheese lovers, and early Welsh writing mentions a Rabbit-like Welsh cheese dish.  This is described by Andrew Boorde in his Fyrst Boke of the Introduction of Knowledge (1542): “I am a Welshman, I do love cause boby, good roasted cheese.”

So here is my version of Welsh Rabbit/Rarebit,  homestyle comfort food along the lines of American grilled cheese.  English food may have a bad rap, but Welsh Rabbit/Rarebit actually has a more nuanced taste than grilled cheese.  With its mix of smooth melted cheddar, a rich cream sauce, and some ale or beer to cut the richness, plus or minus some spices, it’s the English equivalent of fondue.  And, appropriately for the land where the sandwich was born, it’s fondue made portable on toast.   I am serving it in tribute to the poetry of Rabbit Buns, the friends you make traveling, and my Achilles Heel of foreign accents.   Kilt and bagpipes optional.  Enjoy on this Burns Night, January 25th.  Cheers!

Servings: about 12

Ingredients

Technique

7. Any remaining sauce can be refrigerated for up to three days.  Spread onto toast and broil to serve.